Estes Big Bertha Build 3

Well, hello again fellow rocketeers! So from the comments, I see that either:

1) My final bonus mystery photo I closed with last time has absolutely everyone stymied!

or

2) I'm the only person who ever sees this blog.

I favor (2). So if you notice in that pic, the motor mount is securely glued and filleted into place in the body tube. Unfortunately, I neglected to glue in the motor block, which you can see sitting beside the body tube. I neglected to double check the instructions before gluing the motor mount in. So, kids, do you see why you should seek wiser counsel if you wanna learn to build rockets? Anyhow I'm going to count on the good old engine retainer hook to hold the motor in at the forward end during liftoff & hope (pray, really) that it holds the motor in at launch.

So I got all the fins spot-filled with CWF, over areas where the balsa still appeared to be bare:

Afterwards I sanded everything smooth again with 400 grit sandpaper. Then I glued the fins on one at a time with the Estes Fin Alignment Guide. When I first put the rocket onto the guide I noticed that the little paddles on the guide didn't really line up too well with the fin lines I had drawn by ticking the body tube's bottom using the little round guide, then extending from those tick marks using the Ultimate Body Tube Marking Guide. So I bit the bullet, photocopied the instructions and cut out the body tube marking guide. After wrapping this around the tube it was clear that I had gotten off on my marks, so I re-drew the lines. Everything looked all better afterwards:

As previously mentioned I'm using Titebond Quick & Thick (hereafter TBQT) in this build. It's a joy to use for sticking fins on, IMHO. I apply a line of glue to the fin's root edge, wipe it off & let that dry for one minute, then reapply a line of glue and stick the fin on. I used a clamp on the first fin only, but I don't think I needed to use any clamps, really - they tend to pull the fin off the guide line. And with this glue, after reapplication of the glue to the root edge the fin sticks in place right away and all I needed to do was double check that the fin aligned with the aft end of the tube and the guide line and step away.

Above, I had just glued the fourth fin on and things are looking good!  After the last fin dried I removed the rocket from the guide:

Then I glued the launch lug on & filleted that. I chose not to use CWF or anything to fill the spiral in the lug for this kit.

Finally it was time to fillet the fins. I was looking forward to doing this with the TBQT. I decided the fillets I made for the Baby Bertha were too flimsy. I still have to fly her to see if I'm right lol, and I just saw tomorrow's launch is canceled. Bummer. Anyway I used the masking tape technique again for these fillets but I put the tape way wider apart to theoretically produce beefier fillets. There was probably a good 1/2" channel into which I streamed the glue. This proved to be an unwise choice, as they say.

When I was done with the first set the fillets looked like 1/2" to 3/4" exuberant, white, heaped-up keloid scars. I couldn't remember if the technique I read had me scraping off the excess glue or not (pro tip: IT DID). So I chose to just leave these fillets alone & let them dry. Here's how they looked after over 24 hours of drying:

As you see the one on the left is still somewhat white. I think it's fascinating to see that the glue is starting to collapse in on itself, making a nice straight line. After I had applied the one on the left I toned down on squeezing out the glue for the right-hand one so that one is almost totally clear and collapsed. Here's another set on which I used better glue discipline, and made attempts to smooth them out with a paper-towel wrapped finger:

By the last fillet I laid down (on the top in below pic), I think I had it down, though I don't think I tried to smooth that one at all and had I it might look even better:

A concern at this point is the relative weights of the fillets, I should think. I mean, that first set was massive and clearly outweighs the last. So I'm wondering intuitively if when it flies it will arc toward the heavier side. At any rate I don't believe this is going to be an issue that affects the ability of this rocket to fly safely.

So now on to priming and painting. My scheme is to emulate the kit panel, i.e., paint the nose cone and two of the fins black, then everything else yellow. To get there, I plan on first applying a coat of grey primer, then then sanding with 400 grit sandpaper. After consulting with an expert I'm choosing to NOT do any type of wet-sanding. He says that's generally used more for MP & HP rockets with fiberglass & other materials & not so much paper & balsa, so his word's good enough for me!

So after sanding I will spray a coat of white primer and sand again. Then I'll repeat the grey, then the white. Finally it will then be ready for finish coats. I think I want to mask off the majority of the bird and paint the black bits first. So next post should be up in a day or two. Stay well!

Estes Big Bertha Build 2

So we got back from Hocking Hills just fine. On the way we swung by Home Depot to pick up an LED work light and some white & gray primer (Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X). When we got home I opened my eRockets order - the 13mm motors and the Semroc Farside-X kit. But I stayed busy on the eRockets site - now a display cradle, three 18mm display stands, Rustoleum yellow & orange paints, NewWay Skyrise & Flatboy kits as well as an Odd'l Pigasus kit are now on the way. I'm incorrigible. 

So I mixed up some VERY thick CWF and coated all the fins:

Then I got busy with other stuff and let the fins dry for a few hours. I really did put the stuff on thick and it was a lot of work to sand it all off, producing enormous amounts of sanding dust. Then I added more water to the CWF and coated and sanded a second time. I sanded with 220 grit each time. Then I thinned the CWF a final time and gave the fins a final coat. They're drying right now. I plan on doing the final sanding with 400 grit sandpaper.

OK I'm back, having worked some more on Big Bertha in the meantime. Here are my finally finished fins:

They feel absolutely smooth and I hope that proves true when I paint them! But you know, despite the fact that they feel smooth, I think I'm going to continue spot-filling and sanding (more gently, perhaps) these until the actual color is uniform. On close inspection I see areas that still look like bare balsa, though they don't feel like bare balsa.

I got, IMHO, fantastic airfoil leading edges using the North Coast Rocketry sanding jig. Here's what one looks like:

They come in small, medium & large. This is the large, for use w/ 1/8" balsa. You fold a piece of sandpaper (grit not specified, I used 220) and for the leading edge you put the crease in the sandpaper in the right-hand side, insert the fin & sand to shape. I'm uncertain if a photograph will show how nice they came out, but I'll try...

All four look pretty much the same. The left-hand side of the jig is supposed to be for trailing edges.

At this point I referred back to the instructions to resume construction of the kit in the specified order. Kids, if you're reading this blog to learn how to build a model rocket - find another blog! And does your mother know you look at this kind of stuff on the Internet? 

Unsurprisingly, the build pretty much exactly parallels the Baby Bertha. I chose to exclusively use Titebond Quick & Thick glue for this build:

I hope it holds up ok! I like this glue because it's very easy to work with and runs only reluctantly. Anyhow the instructions have you assemble the motor mount as usual:

Next I made little tick marks at the base of the BT for the fin lines:

Then extended the lines, again using my Estes Ultimate Body Tube Marking Guide:

Above, I'm getting ready to draw the launch lug line.

Next I got all excited because I thought it was about time to glue the fins on! But I forgot that I needed to glue the motor mount in first, which I did (interesting photo later). Then on to gluing the fins! But no, darn it - I forgot about filling the body tube spiral. Actually the groove doesn't look too deep:

One article suggested packing the groove directly with straight CWF using a toothpick. Lacking a toothpick, however, I reverted to a modified version  of filling the groove with thinned CWF and a hobby blade - I used the blade part of a little putty spreader. Here's the result, drying:

Another blog mentions a second, subtle groove that runs between the prominent one that should also be filled and sanded. But I rely on the feel of the tool against the groove to direct my application & there's nothing to feel with this second groove. So I'm choosing to skip this and we'll see how the final product looks after priming and painting.

Final bonus photo - from this pic, who can spot the fatal flaw in my build?

OK I'm off like a prom dress! See you next time!

Estes Big Bertha Build 1

This will be the first post of the Big Bertha Build, and I'm actually miles and miles away from the kit itself lol. My wife rented a cabin for us in Hocking Hills, for a nice weekend getaway. But I confess I'm a little rocket-obsessed, so if I can't actually start the build I can talk about starting it.

Here's the kit panel:

And the kit contents:

This is again a very straightforward build, hopefully. My strategy is first of all to take my time with everything. I'm often in such a rush to get a kit finished to get on to the next one and there'e really no hurry, after all. So I'm going to carefully triple-fill and sand the fins with three different thicknesses of successively-more diluted CWF, and then prime & wet-sand with 400 grit (as recommended) multiple times, alternating between white and gray primer, ending with white, until everything is totally smooth. It'll probably be a total of four coats of primer. Then I'll paint Big Bertha a bright glossy yellow with gloss black and white fins. So this build I'll practice my masking technique as well.

I'll again mask off the fins and body tube when gluing the fillets, but this time I'm widening the gaps to make the fillets a bit more substantial.

And I read that the cans of spray paint require a good full two minutes of vigorous shaking before spraying in order to get a smooth even coat, and some even put their can of paint in hot water for 15 minutes or so before spraying. To be honest I don't think I'll go that far but I will shake for the two minutes. Maybe that will prevent the little granular-type spraying errors I noticed on the Baby Bertha nose cone (a goof previously unmentioned). In fact, in surfing around tonight I found that another way to get a mirror-like finish on a rocket is to use an airbrush. Apparently it's possible to achieve such a finish using an airbrush, with no additional clear coats even needed. It's something I'll look in to, because the forum articles I read implied that all the repetitive priming and sanding usually required can be avoided by airbrushing so that's something I could really get behind. 

All righty, I'm going to close again. I'm back home tomorrow to begin the actual build. I plan on stopping by Home Depot on the way home from Hocking Hills to grab the work light I ordered. See you next time!

Estes Baby Bertha Build 3

Hi all! I'm actually away from home this weekend. My dear sweet wife Bridgid arranged a trip to Hocking Hills, to stay in a cabin this weekend for Father's Day. So I am sans any physical rocket stuff  this weekend.

Virtually, however, is another story. I've already been on to eRockets and ordered some paints and a few display stands. And I just got an order from there today - some 13mm motors for the Spaceman, and yet another Semroc Retro-Repo (I think) - the Farside-X. In the old Estes Catalog I think there were two versions, the Farside and the Farside-X. Both were three stage, with the Farside-X having a larger payload compartment. That was the one I built as a boy (bought for $3) and I still distinctly remember my cousin Bobby and I loading a hapless toad into the payload compartment for her maiden flight. I believe we chose two C6-0's for the booster stages and a C6-7 for the sustainer. Needless to say, the bird was lost to sight and I only hope the toad got out okay somehow.

I also ordered a proper tub of Elmer's Carpenters Wood Filler and some of what used to be know as Future Floor Wax. This is supposed to give a very nice glossy shine to a rocket's paint job, like a fancy clear coating. I still have to learn how to use that on a rocket. And after over-spraying part of my Baby Bertha with some subsequent runs, I've decided that part of my issue is not having good enough light when I'm painting. I've been painting in a poorly lit garage so I ordered a 10,000 lumen LED twin head work light on a stand from Home Depot and plan on picking it up on Father's Day itself - this Sunday. That should solve the lighting problems.

And, we're moving! It's only a couple of blocks over but it's a larger condo with a cavernous (though largely unfinished) basement, where my rocket workshop will be. I'm having a handyman build a workbench down there. I plan on it being at least 10 feet long, so I can work on my 7 foot Aerotech Mirage when the time comes lol.

So since the title's post mentions Baby Bertha I suppose it's time to bring her back up. If you remember, the last photo showed how nice the glue fillets on the fins look after masking before laying the glue down. Then here she is waiting for the launch lug:

And after mounting the lug:

I used the Titebond Quick & Thick to glue the lug on, then gambled and hand-filleted the lug, again using Titebond. It makes nice fillets and very few bubbles.

Finally, I primed the rocket with Krylon Flat White, sanded the whole bird with fine sandpaper and finished with a coat of Rustoleum Gloss Black. After drying overnight I placed the stick-on decal. I chose not to paint any fins white or attempt to pinstripe the black fins. As mentioned above I over-sprayed on the distal end of the bird and ended up with some runs on the nose cone and far end of the body. But that's pretty well hidden in this final shot I took:

Overall I'm pretty happy with the results. She looks good if you don't look too closely around the nose cone & where it meets the body.

So my intention, as you know, was to build a Batch-'O-Berthas in succession, to try & improve my finishing techniques before moving on to more complex projects. But Baby Bertha went together so simply and quickly I started wondering if I was wasting my time by basically repeating all the same assembly steps three (or four, with Boosted Bertha) times over. Maybe I'd be better off moving on to a kit with a higher skill level - say, an Estes Mercury Redstone?

But then I read an article, again from Apogee, about how to produce award-winning finishes. And boy, do I have a lot of room for improvement! First of all, while I was on the right track filling all the balsa before mounting any of it and using the thicker CWF this time, I was still trying to get away with coating and sanding the balsa only once. The Apogee article recommends a minimum of three cycles of coating/sanding before ever priming, each with successively thinner CWF with the final dilution being "like watery milk." This three-step process is immensely important, to get a solid and smooth surface for subsequent priming and painting. They also demonstrate use of CWF for filling tube spirals. Anyhow after sanding, it's important to wipe down the rocket with a damp paper towel to get rid of all sanding dust.

Next up is priming the rocket. He swears by Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X paint/primer combo. He advocates priming at least twice, using both white and grey primers. Their order of application depends on what the final color is to be. If you're going for a light finish (e.g., yellow), you start with gray and finish with white before going on to the yellow. The opposite applies if your final color is dark. After spraying the first coat, he wet-sands with 400 grit sandpaper, then wipes everything down again before adding the second coat and re-sanding.The advantage of alternating colors is that you can see if you're sanding too hard, exposing the under color. And it's important to inspect the rocket closely after it dries following the sanding, looking for defects that might even require further CWF and so on. I've never primed and sanded so extensively, so I'm sure that this will make a huge difference.

Then the article gives a very good rundown on masking, using a technique I'd already independently discovered - using the expensive Tamiya yellow masking tape for the critical edge parts, then covering the remaining areas with paper, plastic and/or blue masking tape. I have 10mm and 6mm tapes as well as 2, 3, and 5mm "flexible" tape, which reportedly does a credible job of masking around curves.

So I've decided to at least progress on through the Big Bertha and try harder to get a more perfect fin and body finish. With that I'll close for the evening. I did already shoot some preliminary Big Bertha shots so I'll likely post more tomorrow

Estes Baby Bertha Build 2

I'm back. So I let the fins dry in the alignment guide for a few hours and when I removed the rocket, she looked pretty good at first glance:

On second glance, I noticed that one of the fins wasn’t aligned exactly with the aft end of the tube so overall the rocket leans a tiny bit when sitting on the fins. Here, I’ve already mounted the shock cord in the usual Estes fashion. And I’ve applied a band of blue masking tape around the body, in preparation for masking off the fins to apply the fillets. This is the first time I’ve tried the technique, which involves masking off the area where the fillet is to go, applying the glue, smoothing with a craft stick or fingertip, then removing the tape after the glue sets a bit. I think the technique is actually mainly used with epoxy but I thought I’d try it with the Titebond Quick & Thick and I think this technique is also a keeper. Look at these fillets:

Sweet, huh? These are the most tidy fillets I’ve ever done. So three more sets to go, then I’ll need to glue on the launch lug, prime, and paint.

That's all for this post. This rocket went together so quickly! I'll post the final product in a day or two, then move on to the Big Bertha.

Estes Baby Bertha Build 1

Hello gang, me again. As mentioned in my last post, I'm building Estes' Baby Bertha now. My "master plan" is to build this, then the Big Bertha, then the Super Big Bertha, followed finally by the Boosted Bertha. I want to become better at the fundamentals by building these few relatively (IMHO) simple kits before moving on to my Estes Master Series Jayhawk, the Semroc Saturn 1B and finally an Estes Saturn V (2157). To be honest it's highly likely I'll deviate from this little scheme in favor of some random kit that catches my eye - but so it goes.

Here's the kit panel for the Baby Bertha:

And here are its components:

This time I followed the instructions a little more in order. The first step was to prepare the engine mount by marking the motor mount tube at the places where the engine hook and centering rings belong. Next you cut a 1/8" slit into the tube and  insert the engine hook. Then you make a ring of glue around the tube 1-1/4" from the aft end and slide a little mylar retaining ring down onto the glue:

Finally, the centering rings are glued into place:

Then after drying, the motor mount tube is glued into the main body tube, then a glue fillet is applied to the centering ring-body tube junction:

Next, I lightly sanded all the fins and removed them from the laser-cut sheet. Then I mixed up some more CWF, quite thick this time. I coated all the fins, let it dry and then sanded the fins. Somewhere along the line I marked the tube with pencil lines for the fin and launch lug placements. Then I decided to give the Estes fin alignment guide one more chance. This time I just put one fin on at a time, let it dry, then moved on to the next. Looking good so far:

We'll see how it looks after everything is dry and I remove it from the guide.

I forgot to mention that I rounded the leading edges of the fins before gluing them on. I used my new North Coast Rocketry fin airfoil sanding blocks. Here's how they look:

You fold a piece of sandpaper and insert it into the block. Then you sand the edge of the fin with it and I t shapes a perfect airfoil - nice!

Semroc Spaceman Build 2

Well, when we left off, the Spaceman was almost all assembled and ready to paint. Here’s how he looked at this point:

As you can see I’ve done a good bit of work. I glued the nose cone into place. Then the BT-60 piece slid easily onto the slots of the “leg” fins. After gluing this, I mixed up a ball of my epoxy putty and rolled four thin short ribbons. I pressed one in to each corner of the little box made in a previous step, then put Spaceman in to the box, pressing each fin tip into the putty. Then I had to attach a little washer onto the inside of each slat of the box. These weights are to ensure that the rocket doesn’t descend head first after ejecting the motor. I used little balls of the epoxy putty to stick these on. I knew it was going to take some type of epoxy to bond the metal to the balsa and I wanted to avoid the runny liquid epoxy so I thought this was another ideal application of the putty. And it didn’t require filleting! Finally I glued the little “arms” on.

I didn’t photograph all the interim steps, but first I sprayed the model with Krylon Flat White paint & primer combo and let it dry a few hours. Then I took it upstairs and sanded lightly (or heavily, in the case of a couple of nose cone drips lol). I used my fine grit sanding sponge on the bulbous nose cone and the body tube and a sanding block with 320 grit sandpaper on all the flat bits. Then I took it back to the garage for another coat of flat white. I finished off the can, having just enough to complete priming the Spaceman. I again repeated the light sanding and finally sprayed with two coats of Krylon Metallic Silver. Then it was back upstairs to apply the decals - the last step in finishing this rocket. The body decal was exactly the right length to just wrap around. I cut 5/8” lengths of the thin strip decal for the legs and 1/4” lengths for the arms. Overall I’m extremely pleased with the results:

Yes, the “shoulders” are a bit messy, par for my course, but in general I think he looks terrific. You should see him from a little distance! I have no clue when this little fellow will be able to fly but I’m going to make a trip to eRockets for some A10-3T motors so I’ll be ready when it’s time.

Next up: Baby Bertha. Then my plan is to build, in succession, the Big Bertha, the Super Big Bertha, and the Boosted Bertha.  I want to hone my fundamentals in preparation for my Estes Master Series Jayhawk. Then I want to build my Semroc Saturn 1B, followed by an Estes Saturn V (2157).

Semroc Spaceman Build 1

Hello all. I’m deviating from diving in to building the Big Berthas I have (Baby Bertha, Big Bertha, Super Big Bertha, Boosted Bertha) in favor of building another Semroc Retro-Repo kit, the Spaceman. I had such a good time building and flying the Semroc Micron I wanted to do another Retro-Repo. Here’s a photograph of the kit panel (actually printed on the instructions):

It uses the little 13mm motors and is supposed to max out at 300’ on an A10-3T. The original used tumble recovery. This redesign ejects the whole motor tube, which comes down via streamer, and the main body comes down via featherweight recovery.

Here are the kit components:

Once again I ignored the instructions, which start out having you marking the body tube and gluing on the fins, in favor of applying CWF to all the balsa. Here’s the second batch drying:

I already coated and sanded half the pieces. That used up most of my thinned CWF so I mixed up some more, a little thicker this time, to coat the above batch and the nose cone. I think it may do better; I believe I sanded all the CWF completely away in spots on the first batch. I’ll have to redo those.

Did I mention what a blast I had launching my Micron (and Satellite Interceptor) Sunday? I had forgotten the sulfurous and seductive smell of rocket motor exhaust. It made me smile and Robb turned to me and said, “I love that smell” and I just laughed - he gets it.

So after letting the balsa all dry (after redoing the first batch) here’s what everything looked like after sanding:

Everything came out silky-smooth, save for the odd dimple here and there - this fin stock seems thinner than usual and I easily pierced fins mounting them on the music wire. 

I also filled the tube spirals with CWF. Here’s before & after shots:

As well as the nose cone, after sanding:

I’m unsure what the odd striations are in the cone; I can’t feel anything there.

There are 4 fins on Spaceman. Two make up his legs and the other two are support structures as well as fins. The kit supplies a little fin jig to ensure the fins get attached perpendicular to the body tube. Well, here’s what it looked like all together:

 

In retrospect, looking at this photograph, the fin on the right is clearly perpendicular to the body tube - it’s just come completely off the marking line for the fin lol. Naturally I failed to notice this until the glue had all dried. Another fin was crooked as well but luckily it popped off easily when I removed the jig so I re-glued it and eyeballed it to get the alignment. 

My opinion of the fin jig:

Lol.

So the next step was to dig the fin jig back out of the garbage because the instructions next state to use it as sort of a template to assemble the little balsa strips that make up the box that surrounds the fin tips:

So far this went together well.

My biggest issue with this kit thus far is that the fins have these tiny little points as part of the “sockets” that accept the arm & “hand” pieces. These points break off very easily, as I’ve tried to show in the below composite photo:

I’m pretty sure I can still get everything to stick together ok but it won’t look as nice as the photograph on the package.

Here are the “arm” pieces:

Again, on the one on the left, some “points” have broken off the little socket. I plan on using straight CWF to take care of those gaps.

All righty, this little fellow is close to being finished. More soon!

Estes Orange Crush Build - One and Done

Good evening. This post is relatively brief. It’s about building the Estes Orange Crush, one of the supposedly simple E2X kits. The post is brief because the rocket is in fact so simple to build. It’s just easy to mess up the finish - see later for more.

The kit comes in a bag. Here’s a photo of the kit panel:

I took all the parts out of the bag and laid them out. There aren’t that many, really:

From left to right, you see the pre-made fins, the two-piece fin can (assembled but not yet glued), the nose cone, the two body tubes topped with their coupler, and a little bag containing the motor retainer ring, the nose cone base, the shock cord, the cool one-piece launch lug, and a pre-assembled parachute.

I started by gluing the two fin can halves together. The instructions suggest using plastic model cement. I don’t like it’s messiness, however, so I elected to use spots of medium-thick, gap-gilling CA. Why this type of CA? It was closest to my hand, lol. Are we seeing a pattern in this blog yet?

So as per my tradition, I over applied the CA despite my best efforts. Some got onto my fingers as I was trying to match up the fin can halves and stick them together. Some CA thus got smeared onto the outside of the fin can - messing up the finish.

While I read somewhere that acetone removes CA, as you can see above I didn’t have such good luck with that. It just sort of smeared everything around. So having gotten my traditional finish-messing-up done straight away, hopefully this will be as bad as it gets. Fortunately these areas on the fin can later get covered with some of the stick-on decals so it’s pretty well hidden.

The next steps went by so swiftly I forgot to document them. That plus my wonderful wife Bridgid was waiting so we could go pick up cheesecake from the Cheesecake Factory lol. These consisted of gluing the fins onto the fin can, gluing the launch lug onto a body tube, gluing the fin can into the end of the body tube containing the launch lug (farthest away from the lug), gluing the coupler into this body tube, then gluing the remaining body tube onto the coupler.

For gluing the fins on, the instructions again called for plastic model cement. But the Estes D-Region Tomahawk I recently built likewise had plastic fins glued onto a fin can (albeit through-the-wall). Those fins kind of popped loose with minimal handling and I had to redo those with epoxy so I started with epoxy right away on this kit. I was proud of myself on the glue discipline, the fins only look minimally sloppy. There’s no real way to fillet them from the outside but I plan on filleting them from the inside with epoxy putty since it won’t be seen so it won’t matter if they look horrid.

I thought the launch lug was cool. It’s a thin plastic strip with loops on either end, to accommodate a 3/16” launch rod. There are little plastic bumps under each loop. You draw a light line down part of the tube and make a mark on the line 6” down. Then you press the lug strip down, with one end lined up on the mark. You press it in hard enough to get the little bumps to indent the tube. Next you take a hobby knife and make little holes through the indentations you just made. Finally you apply adhesive to the tube (epoxy again, in my case) and press the lug onto the tube with the bumps going into the freshly-made holes. I like this because with two piece lugs part of the difficulty is getting them both lined up and this one-piece design takes care of that issue.

So anyway I didn't take any more photographs until all this was done. Here’s what it looks like to this point:

Of course the nose cone isn’t on yet. But from this angle the finish looks mighty fine! I still have to add the treacherous decals however. Here’s what the assembled nose cone looks like:

I finally used tube-type plastic cement to assemble this lol.

OK I actually DID go on to finish the bird, and the decals went on magnificently! Here’s a photograph:

Now to get ready for the launch! I may launch this on a D12-5.